26.6.09

St-Germain-Des-Prés




I can’t believe we have only been here one night. Probably has something to do with the fact that I’ve taken at least two naps each day – I love vacation. Last night was highlighted by a sunset walk along rue de Buci. The streets were packed with people, locals, and tourists, all taking in a perfect summer evening. The air was filled with the chatter of conversation from the surrounding outdoor tables (both earnest and excited, never meaningless), sumptuous smells from the overflowing cafes (sugar, spice and everything nice) mixing with the lingering cigarette and cigar smoke; a stylized movie set? No, just another typical night in Paris. After perusing the scene, we picked Del Papa (38, rue de Buci). Still humming at 11pm, we squeezed into our table, surveyed the neighbor’s entrees and ordered the perfect oven baked pizza. Piping hot, razor thin, this chef would have made an Umbrian proud. Completely stuffed, we wandered Boulevard St-Germain, just barely able to complete our crème glacee (purchased from one of the multiple vendors) before it melted in our hands.

Today we rediscovered St-Germain-des-Prés. The 6th arrondissement is fantastic, exclusive, and expensive. It also houses some of our favorite stores. You can have all the usual international houses and style anywhere, here some of our local favorites include:

Deyrolle (46, rue du Bac), skip the first floor and go directly to the second for an exquisite collection of taxidermy (large game, song birds, insects, fish and reptiles). We purchased a book documenting the aftermath of the fire a couple of years ago. Fabulous photos, fabulous!

Flamont (8, Place de Furstenburg), the European version of Restoration Hardware. I know, kind of mainstream, but occasionally this place has some cool set pieces.

Librairie Alain Brieux (48, rue Jacob), store is a cabinet of curiosity. From ancient medical devices, books, journals to a one of a kind early nineteenth century paper mache anatomical model.

Jacques Hervouet (40 rue de l’Université), cool objets d’art, with a distinctive design whimsy.

Lunch today at Laudurée (21, rue Bonaparte with 3 additional Paris locations), a haven for respite after shopping and walking, and don’t skimp on the desert.

Afternoon café crème at Café de Flore (172 Blvd St-Germain), redefine your inner existentialism and recharge your battery.

All right, it’s off to dinner, tomorrow it’s the start of the shopping weekend (Saturday, Sunday and Monday are the flea market shopper go-days). Get some rest tonight, tomorrow we shop.

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